How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi Logic Board Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 46 Steps
Heads up, repair champ! If you run into any bumps along the way, don’t hesitate to reach out. Just schedule a repair and let us lend a hand!
Get ready to swap out that logic board! It’s easier than it sounds, and we’re here to help you every step of the way. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a quick clean before you dive into this. Any leftover gunk on the bottom could end up making friends with your iOpener, and nobody wants that mess!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair session. Overheating can lead to a bit of a mess, so let’s avoid letting it get over 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of it!
If the middle of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, feel free to keep using it while it cools down a bit. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes, so you’re in good shape!
– Give that iOpener a nice warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you tackle the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets really toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt might just become your new best friend.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
Don’t have a microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water and let it soak up the heat.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil. Once it’s bubbling away, go ahead and turn off the heat.
– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and getting all cozy.
– Using some tongs, fish out that heated iOpener from its warm water spa.
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry to make sure it’s all set.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is good to go! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the hot water bath for another 2-3 minutes after boiling the water again. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
Don’t forget to rock those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep it together and avoid any ouchies during your repair by sticking some tape on it.
– Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over your iPad’s display until the entire front is nicely covered.
– Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as it unfolds. Just a heads up, once the glass is cracked, it might decide to keep breaking as you go. You might need to grab a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Just a heads-up! When you’re dealing with shattered glass, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky shards from spoiling your day.
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it’s smooth and cozy for optimal contact between the iPad and the iOpener.
– Give it a little time to chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening that front panel.
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Step 7
It might take a bit of elbow grease to slip that nifty opening tool between the glass and plastic. Just take your time and be gentle, giving the tool a little wiggle as needed to ease it in. You’ve got this!
– Spot the tiny gap in the adhesive ring of your iPad, located in the upper right corner about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. It’s like a secret door to your repair journey, and we’re about to use it!
– Now, get ready to align your trusty tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just dip the very tip in there, just enough to give that crack a little stretch!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Take the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick further underneath the front glass until it’s about 0.5 inches deep.
Step 12
That adhesive is tough as nails! You might need to put in a bit of muscle. Just take your time and be gentle with it.
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While diving in this deep won’t cause any harm, you might end up with some adhesive residue on that shiny LCD of yours. Just a heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling off the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the iPad’s edge, freeing the adhesive as you go along.
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Step 13
You might find it helpful to slide that warmed iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad as you peel away the adhesive. The timing here depends on how long your iPad has been cooling while you’ve been busy with your repair magic.
– If your opening pick gets a bit cozy with the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep freeing up that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting too cozy again!
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then position it at the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Because of how it’s positioned, it’s super important to be careful while handling it—otherwise, you might accidentally damage the Wi-Fi antenna beyond repair. So, take it easy and happy fixing!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! We’re about to embark on a delicate mission.
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna snugly against the front panel. Just be super careful not to harm the fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Let’s take it step by step!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: don’t slide that pick too far past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, letting that adhesive loosen up like it’s ready for a break.
Step 17
Take your time and gently glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is tucked away near the corner and can easily get damaged if the adhesive isn’t handled with care.
Just give that pick a little wiggle—don’t go all the way and pull it out completely! Leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly under the front glass. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the tip of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, setting free the adhesive that’s holding onto the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 18
– Alright, once you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), it’s time to reinsert that trusty opening pick all the way in.
– Now, give that pick a little slide to the right, and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass lets go. You’ve got this!
Step 19
Keep it cool! Don’t heat the iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and make sure to give it a little breather of at least two minutes before you heat it up again.
– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad, and slide that opening pick around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, pop it back in to about a half-inch (10 mm) deep. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
– Nestle the opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button. It’s like giving it a little hug!
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, just pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep going. And if your iOpener isn’t warm enough, give it a little heat-up session!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to use a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could hurt you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, feel free to take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still holding on tight, give the iOpener another heat session and place it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around that top left corner like you mean it!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you reach around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick!
– Gently slide that trusty opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. Just a heads up, the adhesive here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick at a shallow depth—no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) away from the iPad’s bottom. Take your time and work gently to avoid accidentally cutting this cable.
– With the trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, let’s gently peel back the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
Sometimes, the adhesive around the edges of your iPad decides to play hard to get and sticks back down. If you find yourself in this situation, grab a pick and gently slide it underneath the stubborn edge where the front glass is still holding on tight, and give that adhesive a little ‘snip’ to help it let go.
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’re doing great!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device like you’re unveiling a surprise.
– When it’s time to put things back together, remember to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give the LCD a little TLC, making sure it’s dust and fingerprint-free before sealing it up with the glass.
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently shift the home button ribbon cable to the side so you can easily access and remove that sneaky bottom left screw.
– Carefully take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the aluminum frame. You’re almost there!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate, and bending it too much could lead to a break. Keep it gentle and you’ll be just fine!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, rotate the LCD around its left edge and carefully lay it down on the front glass panel. Almost there!
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Step 30
– With the spudger in hand, gently lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, it’s time to come out!’
– With a gentle touch, use your fingers or some tweezers to ease the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board. It’s all about that smooth exit!
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Step 32
– Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel without touching its surface. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If you’ve got some electrical tape blocking the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel that off gently. You’re doing great!
Step 34
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Give it a little nudge, and you’re on your way!
Step 35
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently tug the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 36
– Gently free the home button ribbon cable from its cozy spot in the rear case. Give it a little nudge and it’ll be on its way!
Step 37
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift that piece of tape holding down the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the adhesive holding down the digitizer ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
– Once it’s loosened, smoothly pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy little sockets on the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab the flat end of your trusty spudger to carefully break the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 41
– With a gentle tug, use your fingers to coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its snug little home in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad, and voilà, you’re on your way!
Step 42
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel back that pesky piece of electrical tape that’s hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector. You’ve got this!
– Next up, take the tip of your spudger and flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. Easy peasy!
Step 43
– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger underneath the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the adhesive that’s been keeping it cozy against the rear aluminum frame.
– Now, give that headphone jack assembly cable a nice, straight pull to pop it out of its socket on the logic board. You’re doing great!
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Step 44
Be sure to pry gently under the connector, not the socket itself. Giving the socket a little too much love might lead to some serious damage.
– Unplug the following connectors from their cozy spots on the logic board:
Step 45
– Unscrew those four little screws holding the logic board snugly against the rear aluminum panel. You’re almost there!
Step 46
– With the logic board in hand, grip it gently on the side away from the Lightning connector and carefully wiggle it free from the iPad. You’ve got this!
